Select a Barbour jacket by matching the fit to your height (Bedale for shorter, Beaufort for taller) and choosing the right wax weight for your climate.
Buying your first waxed jacket is a rite of passage for many, but the sheer number of models can be overwhelming. You might see a wall of olive green coats that look identical, yet they fit and function very differently. Making the wrong choice often leads to a jacket that sits in the closet because the sleeves are too short or the body is too boxy.
Barbour has refined these designs since 1894. They build coats for specific purposes, from riding horses to shooting game or commuting in the city. Understanding these original purposes is the secret to finding the right one for you. This guide breaks down the confusing terminology, fits, and fabrics so you can invest in a coat that lasts a lifetime.
Understanding The Core Barbour Fits
Most buyers get stuck deciding between the “Big Three”: the Bedale, the Beaufort, and the Border. While there are dozens of other styles, these three form the foundation of the brand’s heritage line. Each has a distinct length and cut.
The Bedale: Short And Equestrian
The Bedale is the shortest of the classic jackets. Barbour originally designed it for horse riding. Because you sit in a saddle, a long coat would bunch up, so the Bedale stays high on the hip. It features rear vents that snap open, allowing the fabric to drape over a saddle—or a motorcycle seat.
Key features of the Bedale:
- Ribbed Cuffs: The sleeves end in a tight sweater-like cuff. This keeps wind out but can trap moisture if you get them wet.
- Shorter Length: It usually sits at the belt line or just below.
- Casual Vibe: It looks great with jeans and chunky sweaters but often looks awkward over a suit jacket because the blazer hem might poke out from underneath.
The Beaufort: The Shooter’s Choice
If you plan to wear a blazer or suit underneath, the Beaufort is usually the safer bet. It adds about 2.5 to 3 inches in length compared to the Bedale. Originally designed for shooting, it includes a large rear “game pocket” lined with nylon. While you likely won’t carry pheasants in there, it is perfect for stashing a newspaper, gloves, or a dog leash.
Key features of the Beaufort:
- Velcro Cuffs: Unlike the Bedale, the Beaufort has nylon cuffs with Velcro. This allows you to wipe them clean if they get muddy.
- Full Coverage: The extra length protects your lower back and covers suit jackets completely.
- Rear Pocket: The prominent zippers on the back give you access to the full-width rear pocket.
The Border: Maximum Coverage
The Border is the longest of the trio. It falls to the mid-thigh or just above the knee on most men. It was designed for people walking through tall wet grass who didn’t want their trousers soaked. It has a straighter, less A-line cut than the Bedale or Beaufort.
If you are taller than 6’2″, the Border often fits like a normal coat, whereas the Bedale might look like a crop top. It features deeper bellows pockets and typically has a more formal, raincoat-like appearance.
Wax Cotton Types And Weights Explained
Once you settle on a shape, you must look at the fabric. Barbour uses Egyptian cotton treated with a proprietary wax finish. The weight of this cotton determines how warm, stiff, and durable the jacket feels.
6oz Sylkoil vs. Thornproof
Most standard jackets come in 6oz waxed cotton. This is a medium weight suitable for autumn and spring. However, there are two distinct finishes:
- Thornproof: This is the classic, slightly shiny, stiff finish. It is extremely durable and designed to resist briars and thorns. It looks brand new for longer but takes time to break in.
- Sylkoil: This is an “unshorn” cotton woven directly from the loom and then dyed. It has a matte, suede-like finish and feels softer immediately. It drapes better right off the hanger but develops a patina faster.
4oz and 8oz Variations
If you live in a milder climate, you might find the 4oz “Lightweight” wax appealing. It packs down smaller and weighs less, making it good for travel. However, it lacks the rugged armor feel of the original.
Conversely, the 8oz “Heavyweight” options (often found in the Northumbria model) are bulletproof against the cold. They are stiff, heavy, and can feel like wearing a suit of armor until they soften up after years of wear.
How To Choose a Barbour Jacket Based On Use
Your daily routine dictates which model will serve you best. Buying for fashion often leads to discomfort if the jacket clashes with your environment.
For The City Commuter
If you take the train or drive to an office, you likely wear layers. The Ashby is a strong contender here. It is a modern rework of the Bedale but with a slimmer profile and longer sleeves. It removes the boxy “tent” fit of the originals. However, be aware that the Ashby has synthetic sleeve linings which can cause sweating if you run hot.
If you wear suits, stick to the Beaufort. The Ashby is often too tight in the armholes to comfortably accommodate a blazer, and the Bedale is too short.
For Country Pursuits And Dog Walking
If you are actually outdoors in the mud, skip the Ashby. You need room to move. The Classic Beaufort or Classic Bedale (using Sylkoil fabric) allows for heavy knitwear underneath. The ease of movement in the raglan sleeves (where the sleeve extends to the collar) is superior for throwing a ball or climbing over a stile.
For Heavy Winter Use
A standard Barbour jacket is not a parka. It is a shell. It blocks wind and rain effectively, but it has zero insulation. If you plan to wear this in freezing temperatures, you must size it to accommodate a zip-in liner or a thick fleece. Barbour sells separate pile liners that zip into most “Interactive” models. Always check the label; if it says “Interactive,” it accepts a liner.
Sizing And Layering Considerations
Sizing is where most people get confused. Heritage Barbour jackets (Bedale, Beaufort, Border) run large. Very large. They were designed before modern slim-fit trends, intended to go over thick tweed jackets.
The “Size Down” Rule
For the Classic Bedale and Beaufort, the general consensus is to size down one size for a fitted look. If you normally wear a 40 suit jacket, a size 38 Barbour will likely fit you well with a shirt and sweater underneath. If you stick to your true size (40), the jacket will look voluminous. This “boxy” look is traditional, but many modern wearers find it excessive.
Sleeve Length Issues
A common complaint with the Bedale is short sleeves. Because it was made for equestrian use, the sleeves are kept short to avoid tangling with reins. If you have long arms, you might find the cuff sits halfway up your forearm when you reach forward. In this case, the Beaufort is a better option as the sleeves run slightly longer, or you may need to look at the “Long” alterations Barbour offers at their factory.
Classic Vs Modern: The Ashby Debate
The Ashby has become the best-selling model for younger buyers, but purists often dislike it. Here is the breakdown so you can decide where you stand.
| Feature | Classic Bedale | Ashby |
|---|---|---|
| Fit | Boxy, spacious, A-line | Slim, tailored, straight |
| Fabric | Traditional Wax Cotton | 4oz Sylkoil (Lighter) |
| Sleeve Lining | Cotton (Breathable) | Synthetic (Non-breathable) |
| Manufacture | Made in England (Usually) | Imported (Moldova/Bulgaria) |
Choose the Ashby if: You want a fashion-forward jacket for the city, you are slim, and you don’t care about “Made in England” heritage.
Choose the Bedale if: You want the authentic article, you need breathability, and you plan to layer thick clothes underneath.
Color Selection And Patina
The color you choose affects how the jacket ages. Barbour offers several shades of green and blue, and they do not all fade the same way.
Sage vs. Olive
This is the most common confusion.
Sage: A deep, forest green. It usually comes in the Thornproof finish. It is shiny when new and extremely dark. Over time, it fades significantly, developing distinct creases and character.
Olive: A brownish-green. It usually comes in the Sylkoil finish. It starts with a matte look and stays relatively consistent in color, developing a rich, leather-like patina rather than high-contrast fading.
Navy And Black
Navy jackets are excellent for city wear and look smarter with business casual attire. However, wax cotton attracts lint and dust. On Sage or Olive, dust blends in. On Navy or Black, every piece of lint shows up. If you own a white cat or dog, a Navy Barbour will require constant rolling.
Maintenance And Re-Waxing Requirements
Owning a waxed jacket is like owning a leather boot; it requires maintenance. You cannot wash these jackets. Putting a Barbour in the washing machine will strip the wax forever and ruin the jacket. It cannot be fixed after that.
To clean it, you sponge it down with cold water. That’s it. Once a year (or every two years depending on wear), you need to re-wax it. You can send it back to Barbour for a fee, or you can buy a tin of wax and do it yourself with a hairdryer and a sponge. This maintenance keeps the fabric water-resistant. If you let the wax dry out, the cotton will eventually fray and tear at the creases.
Checking For Authenticity And Details
When you are ready to buy, check the details. The zippers on a real Barbour are heavy-duty brass circles. They are two-way zippers (you can unzip from the bottom up). This is vital for sitting down in a car or on a train without the jacket bunching up into your chin.
Look at the collar. It should be corduroy. This fabric feels warm against the neck and provides grip if you flip the collar up and snap the throat latch shut against the wind. Some fashion-forward collaborations remove these functional details, so if you want utility, stick to the core line.
Understanding how to choose a Barbour jacket ultimately comes down to honesty about your lifestyle. If you live in a rainy city and wear suits, get a Sage Beaufort. If you live on a farm and wear heavy wool sweaters, get an Olive Bedale or Northumbria. If you just want to look sharp at a coffee shop, get a Navy Ashby.
Key Takeaways: How To Choose a Barbour Jacket
➤ Bedale is shorter with ribbed cuffs; ideal for casual wear or riding.
➤ Beaufort is longer with a rear pocket; best for covering suit jackets.
➤ Size down one size for heritage models (Bedale/Beaufort) for a fitted look.
➤ Sylkoil wax is matte and soft; Thornproof is shiny and stiff.
➤ Do not machine wash your jacket; clean only with cold water and sponge.
Frequently Asked Questions
Does wax transfer onto car seats or furniture?
Yes, it can. A freshly waxed jacket may leave a slight residue on light-colored upholstery or leather car seats, especially in a heated car. It is best to take the jacket off before driving or sitting on expensive furniture until the wax has settled and dried, which takes a few weeks.
Is the Barbour jacket actually waterproof?
It is highly water-resistant, but not waterproof like a modern Gore-Tex shell. In a torrential downpour, water may eventually seep through seams or pressure points (like shoulder straps). However, for typical rainy days in the city or country, it keeps you perfectly dry while breathing better than plastic raincoats.
Can I wear a Barbour jacket in the snow?
You can, but the waxed cotton gets stiff in freezing temperatures. The fabric hardens and can feel cold to the touch. You must add a thermal liner or wear a heavy wool sweater underneath. Without insulation layers, the jacket offers almost no warmth on its own in freezing conditions.
How much does a Barbour stretch over time?
Waxed cotton does not stretch. Unlike denim or leather which molds to your body significantly, the cotton weave is locked in by the wax. Ensure you have enough room in the shoulders and chest when you buy it, as it will not give way or loosen up with wear.
Why does my new jacket smell like crayons?
That is the smell of the wax. It has a distinctive, earthy, oily scent often compared to crayons or old libraries. This smell is normal and is part of the charm. It will fade over time as the volatile oils evaporate, but it never completely disappears.
Wrapping It Up – How To Choose a Barbour Jacket
Finding the right jacket is about balancing the heritage fit with modern expectations. The Bedale offers a classic, sporty look that works well for shorter frames or active use, while the Beaufort provides the length and utility needed for taller individuals or those wearing tailoring. Remember to pay close attention to the fabric finish—Sylkoil for immediate comfort, Thornproof for maximum durability.
Once you make your choice, commit to the care routine. A well-maintained Barbour looks better after ten years than it does on day one. By selecting the right size and model now, you secure a wardrobe staple that will tell your story through its creases and patina for decades to come.